The first days

Even though I had planned there to be little rest in between my arrival and first day at TASO, I was feeling the jet lag and some nerves. I was instructed by Dr. Josephine the day before to wait at the guesthouse to be walked into TASO by a colleague (the perks of staying somewhere within walking distance). While waiting there I had an incredible encounter with a young girl who immediately spotted me and asked me if I had a camera phone. I was amused by her bluntness and confidence so passed over my iPhone. She then took several hundred selfies and videos of herself singing while giggling away with glee. When my TASO colleague, Andrew, arrived I was saddened to leave this girl but happy to have photo and video evidence of our short, but special encounter together.

When Andrew arrived, we walked and talked as if we had known each other and had been good friends. A similar pattern emerged once I was able to meet the other research team and see how warm and welcoming everyone was. After a short prayer was given (typical practice in Ugandan culture) we began our introductory meeting. Even though there was only 4 of us present, the meeting feel was rather formal, as was something I noted in my team’s attire. The research team set out a detailed weekly plan for what activities they had scheduled, but also encouraged me to find other areas I could contribute to and add that to my schedule. For the remainder of the day I met with each of the managers from the several areas in which TASO focuses it’s efforts, including Resource Mobilization and Health Systems Strengthening. Each person I met with was extremely knowledgeable in their field and many had worked in other roles or capacities throughout TASO, verifying my impression that this was an amazing place for anyone to work.

Then for the lunch break, now this was something I had some apprehensions about. Not only was I nervous about some likely teasing and confusion, but also not knowing what I could possibly eat as a vegetarian there. To my surprise they did have a “veggie plate” option, although I wouldn’t go as far as to say this was intended for vegetarians. The food from the cafeteria downstairs was hearty and heavy with matoke and posho taking up the majority of the plate. I actually enjoyed the food and having a home cooked meal by walking downstairs.

The first day passed quickly then following the week. I found several areas that I was familiar with and the TASO team welcomed my ideas and encouraged implementation to start. I was able to share my ideas with the TASO managers in a brief presentation before I set off to Jinja to meet the research team there.

Arrival Day

 It took over 23 hours of flying to travel from Vancouver to Entebbe (the only international airport in Uganda). I was completely exhausted lacking any quality sleep, through 4 stopovers before finally arriving. Unfortunately, these delays continued once I arrived, as my checked baggage was lost, along with everyone else’s on the flight.

The anxiety of arriving to a new country and arranging to meet someone is whether or not they will be there, especially when delays happen and communication is not possible. Luckily, even though I was delayed a few hours, Dr. Josephine and her husband were there to greet me in the early hours of Sunday morning. Included in the TASO internship fees are the cost of pick up and drop off from the Entebbe airport, although will not reduce your fees if you opt for another means of transportation. This is one less thing off your plate when you arrive to an unfamiliar place. The journey from Entebbe to Kampala is about an hour through some chaotic traffic. I wouldn’t trust anyone other than an experienced Ugandan driver to get me through it.

I was dropped off at the Mulago Guesthouse, which is about a 10-minute walk to TASO headquarters and based within the hospital grounds (http://www.lonelyplanet.com/uganda/kampala/mulago/hotels/guesthouses). This guesthouse offers short and long-term stays for an affordable price and comes with a filling breakfast(~$20 USD/night). Many clinical workers, students, volunteers that work at the main Kampala hospital will stay here, so making friends and having someone to explore with becomes easier. Another recommended place a Canadian/Ugandan friend of mine runs is called Nyumba 591 (check it out on Facebook or call to arrange your stay +256 792 172017), which offers comfortable short-term stays at affordable rates.

Wherever you choose to stay, it is common practice to ask to inspect the room before you pay the bill. Key things to check for include that there are no holes in the mosquito nets over the bed, the water is working, locks and screens are intact and the room is clean. Once you are satisfied then you can talk price (or sometimes negotiate if you are staying longer). These practices are not perceived as rude so don’t be afraid to do so- they are likely expecting it.

In general it is safe to walk to work, but I would use caution at night even though it is close, mostly because of the poor conditions of the road and sidewalks and lack of lighting.

Within walking distance or a short bodaboda (motorcycle transportation) ride away from the Mulago hospital grounds is Acacia Mall. The mall and surrounding complex has all the essentials to get you started (grocery stores, markets, coffee shops, mobile phone companies, restaurants, clubs and exchange bureaus).

I arrived at 5am Sunday morning then started work at 8:30am Monday morning, which was a quick way to adjust to the Eastern African Time (EAT) zone. I felt a bit nervous, but mostly excited for my first day to finally meet the TASO team I had travelled very far to meet and learn from.

In the next blog I will describe the experience of my first day and week at headquarters and the process of mapping out the remainder of my internship.

Remember to follow me on Twitter (@kowalchuk_jill) and Instagram (@ciaobellas) for more #journeytothepearlofafrica.

How to prepare your baggage and mind

Once the dust had settled after my thesis was submitted I was able to start making concrete plans for my trip.

It is important to think beyond your internship being more than just a credit requirement for your course/degree. There is a lot to consider including what you want to gain from the experience as a whole. If you narrow your focus too much on just accomplishing the project, you will likely be disappointed and is good to set realistic expectations.

I have traveled to over forty countries, but this trip was likely the most thought and packing effort I had prepared before leaving. Asking friends who have been to Africa in general is helpful, although you are likely to get a lot of opinions on it. For example, I struggled with what type of malaria medication to bring/take. There were a variety of responses from experienced friends/colleagues, which were almost all contradictory on ones to take or avoid. The topics ranged from side effects, costs including whether to buy the entire dosage from home or in Uganda where it is subsidized, counterfeit drugs, as well as which malaria medications are resistant. In a way, the more thought I put into what I felt comfortable with (i.e. not getting malaria), the more confused I became.

Preparing for a trip can have its rock bottom not sure if I should go moments, or the sky high can’t wait to be there. Talking and reading about others experiences helped me piece together some of the essentials, which I have conveniently summed up a few below.

What to pack

Electricity: 240V, although you should bring a plug that has multiple options as the European two prong and British three prong plugs are randomly scattered throughout most places.

Hand sanitizer: Hand soap is not provided in many local establishments, best to carry it around with you.

Iodine tablets: Handy for when you’ve forgotten to boil water and let it cool off, or are not near to buy bottled water (which may sometimes come from the tap anyway).

Food: If you are not ready to take the full plunge bring some items from home you wouldn’t want to risk not having. I personally wish I brought sriracha.

Medications & Vitamins: You likely have a go to brand for certain ailments, so having them close to hand if you begin to feel sick is valuable then wandering around shops for them. I’ve also taken vitamins, like probiotics to help strengthen my gut before my trip.

Currency: I briefly mentioned in my last blog I decided to take US dollars with me as a method to convert my money. However, if I had to do it again I would have withdrawn shillings from many of the main banks here. I would deter getting travelers cheques as they are not widely accepted.

Sanitary items & Tissues: This may come in handy in an all too common situation of no toilet paper.

Sunscreen & Bug spray: Difficult to find and a must if you don’t want to return home a tomato! Deet is essential after dark, not only for malaria prevention but

Earplugs: Many mosques are scattered throughout Uganda and there is a call to worship quite early in the am-so if you aren’t of the Muslim faith you likely won’t want to be disturbed in precious hours before you want to hit the snooze button.

Headlamp/Flashlight: Power outages are common so if you want to continue to work, recharge your electronics often and have a light source handy.

Soft scrubbing brush: This is very useful for scrubbing the dust off your feet after a day’s walk/work since it is often dusty.

Gifts (optional): Think this is a nice gesture to bring a few small gifts from home to share with your TASO team or others.

Psychological preparations

These are just, if not more important than you’re material item packing list. Get ready for some “This is Africa” (TIA) moments where fairly concrete concepts are not as they are back home. If this is your first time traveling outside of your home country you may be in for more of a culture shock. Here are a few things friends of mine told me to be ready for:

·      Local languages: Even though English is widely spoken in Uganda, most tend to speak their local dialects with each other. It is likely impossible to cover your entire basis as there are about 33 indigenous languages, but Luganda will get you quite far. If you can prepare a few words in advance, this will show a genuine effort to get acquainted with the staff and you’re your started in making some Ugandan friends.

·      Communication styles: In some ways there are imperative means of speaking (i.e. Give me  _____) instead of a more inquisitive tone (May I have a _____?). However, no means of communication is that straightforward so it is best to observe others and try to copy. When in doubt ask a good friend, they will let you know.

·      Keep an open mind: Even though there are approaches and topics in Uganda I fundamentally disagree with, it is important to keep an open mind to not only their beliefs but also seeing the larger picture. This principle always takes me far, since you never can really judge unless you’ve walked a mile in someone else’ shoes.

·      Patience is a virtue: I love psychology (my bachelor degree) and people, but at the same time I knew I wasn’t going to figure out Uganda and its people out in a few short months. Patience is important in keeping a

·      Time management principles: The concept of time is very different here. The pace of work is much more relaxed and deadlines are likely to constantly move. It is easy to get frustrated when working with concrete time, so find additional things to keep yourself occupied and moving in the right direction (i.e. learning more about TASO or Ugandan culture) while adjusting to this new concept of time.

·      Get used to your new name-“Muzungu”: If you are not of African descent you will likely hear this word “Muzungu” being shouted at you. It roughly translates into “white person” although I have seen non-Caucasians foreigners being called this as well. It is not intended as an insult but there are likely some stereotypes attached.

The things nothing can prepare you for… In a way I think there are some things you cannot prepared for, but this should be a major factor of your international internship experience. There is much more visible poverty, disease and death that can take its toll on your mental health, so it’s important to make sure you have friends and family to debrief with when it gets to be too much.

As always leave a comment below and share your experiences in moving to Uganda with others preparing for their trip.

Follow me on Instagram @ciaobellas and Twitter @kowalchuk_jill for more live updates on my #journeytothepearlofAfrica.

Organizing your internship

Making the connection to TASO was easy. A friend and classmate of mind from the London School of Hygiene and Tropical Medicine (LSHTM) had interned at TASO Uganda a few years back. He told me about his experiences there over a casual dinner, likely not anticipating that I would seriously consider it.

Over the next couple of months I spoke with my friend about his work experiences, the cultural adjustments, logistics of planning his stay and overall value he thought it added to his career and personal life today. Of course we came from different backgrounds, experiences in developing countries and as a female traveling alone unfortunately this comes with special considerations he likely wouldn’t have experienced.

It was shortly after these discussions my friend introduced me over email to Dr. Josephine Birungi. Dr. Birungi is the TASO Research Manager across all TASO sites, a co-founder of a Community Based Organisation (CBO) called HOCDA, a practicing physician, as well as student completing her MBA -an impressive woman to say the least! Dr. Birungi operates amongst a very qualified and supportive team at TASO Headquarters who may also be involved in your internship facilitation. However in my experience, despite the accumulating letters and achievements to her name, Dr. Birungi took time answer in detail my questions over several weeks. Through these early experiences it became apparent that TASO as an organization values mentoring students and new graduates in reaching their career aspirations and benefiting from exchanging knowledge.

To share a few highlights from our conversations, here are some things to consider before committing to a placement at TASO Uganda:

Identify where in Uganda you want to go

There are 11 TASO centres spread across Uganda- Mulago (Kampala), Kanyanya Training Centre, Jinja, Gulu, Mbale, Soroti, Tororo, Entebbe, Masindi, Rukungiri, Masaka and Mbarara.

*Image taken from: http://sprudge.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/map_of_uganda.jpg

Since you will be spending more than half your time outside of work, it’s good to do some research on the area you want to explore and stay in.

What type of experience do you want to gain/what can you offer to TASO

TASO can provide placements for undergraduates or graduate students, graduates or volunteers who are in the medical, psychosocial field (i.e. counselling), public health, international development, media/communication, monitoring & evaluation and project planning. If you have a reasonable skill to offer, they will find a relevant area you can help in.

When you are ready to submit an application, you will be asked to identify 3 key areas you want to gain from the internship placement and the talents you have to offer. When you are ready to apply, email the contacts at the end of the post.

Accommodation

Once you select the TASO centre or project you are interested in, Dr. Birungi and her colleague Emmanuel Mugalanzi (TASO internship coordinator) will find a suitable place to stay. It is important to be clear on your budget and comfort level (with safety never being negotiable element) to help them find the right fit. If you don’t’ specify your preference, you are likely to end up with an expensive place. There are homestays that can be arranged (generally for cheaper) for a fully immersed experience, guesthouses usually with other volunteers and expat workers, hostels with backpackers or hotels with mostly business people.

Duration

Most interns are asked to commit 3 months of their time while at TASO. If this timeframe is not feasible discussing this with Dr. Birungi or Emmanuel will be good to establish early on.

Cost of living and what to budget

TASO expects interns to pay $200 USD per month to participate in the internship program. I must admit I was apprehensive to pay as I was spending quite a large sum to get over there and loss of wages from taking time off work, but once I understood where these costs were going I changed my tune.  All TASO staff and clients pay user fees, so interns are not the exception. Money goes towards funding services here, fuel costs for airport pickup and drop off, travel to different sites, office supplies, a space for you in the centre and other administration costs.

To work out a budget for your trip, it is important to get rough costs of living. The best way I found to do this wasn’t an-up-to-date website, but through talking to other expats who have lived in the area of Uganda you are moving to. You will likely end up paying a lot more than locals because of your appearance, so it is important to brush up on your bargaining skills. I will get into more details later about specific cost of things once I arrived.

Cultural considerations & safety

It is in TASO’s best interest to ensure you have a safe and good experience for its interns. I find TASO tends to be overly cautious with its advice to international interns so you avoid common pitfalls. Listen to the locals’ advice about specific areas and things to watch for, but generally some common sense and confidence will help keep you safe.

Uganda was recently voted the 10^th most hospitable place in all of Africa. I was more surprised to find how hospitable people were here than dangerous. Ugandans are very welcoming and treat you as if you were an extended family member. What was helpful for me was networking from back home through family, friends and colleagues I trusted, which will help with your integration into the culture and staying safe.

Friends of TASO alumni

My intention of beginning this blog series was to help expand the FriendsofTASO and intern alumni. This can provide an opportunity to discuss questions with people with different perspectives on any questions you may have. It also has the benefit to network through alumni, connect with locals, stay up-to-date with what’s happening at TASO, make donations.  A Facebook group will be created shortly for those interested to join. I will add a comment to the bottom of this post once it is live.

In the next blog I will share with you my preparations leading into my journey to TASO and lessons learned about things I would have prepared for differently.

Until next time,

Jillian

*Contact Dr. Birungi birungij@tasouganda.org or Emmanuel at: mugalanzie@tasouganda.org to register your interest with TASO and obtained an application form.